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July 16, 2010

Prague: Top Ten

I often get asked about my favorite destinations and activities in Prague. And I am disappointed when people return from travel abroad to tell me they didn't appreciate Prague's charms. "it's too crowded" they've complained, "all I saw were tourists". This can be a problem. If you are not a Czech native or are depending only on the advice of guidebooks, you'll find yourself at the typical "Top Ten" that everyone- be it Lonely Planet, Rick Steves or Rough Guides - recommends. Here's the problem: Prague is small. It's not London or Paris or Berlin. Prague has three (count 'em, three) metro lines. Only one million inhabitants, but three million tourists annually.

So how can you see the best of Prague without feeling like a piece of cattle? I've made a "Top Ten" of my favorite things to see, do, and eat while in Prague. Some of it will have you fighting the crowds, but some will find you off on your own. For more information on each of these destinations, please feel free to get a hold of me!

10. Uzavesenyho Cafe
While Prague Castle does not make my top ten list because the tourist density is way too high, it is still an important destination in Prague. I've been there four or five times. If and when you go, head over to the Uzavesenyho Cafe for a meal. Just off the beaten path, they are cheaper than most in the Castle District. Even Bill Clinton once ate there. Try the veprova pecene, zeli, knedliky (also known as vepro-zeli-knedli), it's a classic Czech dish, but not one of my favorites as it is pork, dumplings and sauerkraut. I really enjoy the smazeny syr, or fried cheese and the hovezi svickova na smetane, brusinky, knedlíky also known just as svickova is beef with dumplings in a cream sauce with cranberries. All are traditional Czech dishes worth trying. Have a Pilsner or a Gambrinus (personal favorite) with it for a true Czech meal. I'm hungry just thinking about it!

9. Petrin Hill & Strahov Monastery
Petrin Hill may be touristy, but it gives great views of Prague. Take the funicular (for the price of an adult ticket) up the side of the mountain. Climb the tower for great views (and a fee). Then take a look around. Petrin tower has beautiful views of Prague and on a clear day you can see quite far. You can take the funicular back down, or take one of the trails down the back of the hill, past Strahov Monastery to Prague Castle and the Castle District.
Emily's Recommendation: Head up Petrin early in the morning, walk down the train towards the castle, see the castle & eat at Uzavesenyho Cafe. Or eat first, and then see the castle. If you are in the area just before noon, the changing of the guard is cool.

8. Mala Strana (the Lesser Side)
Mala Strana lies between Hradcany (the Castle District) and the Vltava. Full of fun shops, tourist destinations, charming churches and quaint parks. Head to Kampa and wander around on the island. Turn down a side street and get lost. Visit the Shakespeare and Sons bookstore for a English translation of a Czech classic (and a myriad of others). Spend an afternoon reading in the park. Best done in late spring or early fall.

7. Charles Bridge (Karluv Most)
Charles Bridge is an icon of Prague. Its on almost every postcard and at the top of every list; you can't visit Prague without seeing the bridge. During the day, the bridge is full of tourists, pickpockets and Czechs trying to sell you trinkets. However, at night, the bridge is quiet and calm. If you've got your sweetheart with you, prepare to fall under the spell of it's charm and romance.
Emily's Recommendation: If you've got the time, go twice. Once during the day and once at night.

6.Namesti Miru & Zizkov
From Petrin hill you'll be able to see the TV tower located in Zizkov. You can also go up the tower, but it's more fun to stare at the outside: David Cerny's baby sculptures. On your way to Zizkov, stop at Namesti Miru to admire St Ludmila Cathedral. Namesti Miru is located in the heart of Vinohrady, an upper-class neighborhood of Prague. A lot of expats live in the area, and there is some nice shopping as well as long, beautiful streets perfect for strolls. If you're in need of a run, this is a good area to get you exercise. The metro at Namesti Miru also boasts one of the longest escalators in Europe.

5. Cafe Louvre
Cafe Louvre often makes the tourist books, but it also makes my list. It's charming and a beautiful example of old Prague. Restored after the end of the communist regime, you can now dine in a cafe reminiscent of the same place as Albert Einstein and Franz Kafka often dined.
Emily's Recommendation: Hit it up on a Sunday morning if you can, it's usually fairly empty. Try the hot chocolate, it's some of the best in Prague.

4. A Show at the National Theater
By American (or Western European) standards, the national theater in Prague is cheap. If you're a student or a teacher and have an International Student Identity Card, going to the National Theater is even cheaper. Check out the monthly schedule to find which shows are playing while you're in town. I've been to both the Estates Theater and the National Theater. Both are beautiful. With my ISIC card, sitting in the top (3rd) level, I was able to see the opera of Carmen for $5USD. Perfect.

3. Kmotra Pizzeria
Situated right behind the National Theater, Kmotra is my favorite Pizzeria in Prague. With an upstairs cafe and a downstairs cellar where you can watch them make your pizza in the brick oven, it's a great place to hang out with friends or a date.

2. Josefov, the Jewish Cemeteries & Prague's Jewish History
The Old Jewish Cemetery in Prague is one of the most complete in all of Europe. While not a fun, happy-go-lucky experience, it is touching. It is more expensive than anything else on my list, but the museums are just as important as the cemetery. If you've already been, or want to avoid the crowds, head to the Jewish Cemetery in Zizkov, which is smaller and cheaper, but just as powerful if you need another dose of the holocaust in your life.

1. Vysehrad
My number one favorite spot in Prague is Vysehrad. Stop by Tesco or Albert and grab all the fixings for a picnic. Hope on the metro (take the red line, the stop is named Vysehard) and go for a stroll. It's a great place to visit for a free afternoon adventure off the beaten path, where you can relax and enjoy the peaceful beauty of Prague instead of fending off pickpockets at St. Vaclav Square.
Emily's Recommendation: Vysehard is home to the cemetery where most of the famous Czechs are buried. Kafka is a notably absent.
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